Why Size Inclusivity is so much more than a marketing soundbite…

Angela O'Riley

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It seems as though the size inclusive movement is finally pushing the fashion industry to recognize the potential market of nonstandard size consumers… Brands and retailers alike, are jumping on this band wagon with the intent to tap this massive billion dollar market.

In reality, very few brands understand how to capture a size inclusive market. For many, the process of becoming size inclusive is just a matter of grading up and down an additional size or two, for example: starting with xs-xl and moving into xxs-xxl. Unfortunately. the grading standards used today to make sizes bigger and smaller do not accurately take into account how the body grows above size xl or how it shrinks below the xs. Using these existing grading standards may achieve the goal of adding sizes, but is this really the way to CAPTURE and BEST SERVE the inclusive market?

Stretch fabric has saved a lot of brands from absolute failure with extended sizing. By using fabrics with extra stretch, the fabric becomes the secret partner in making clothing fit. What about more rigid fabrics such as shirting or suiting? These challenge the designer’s ability to create clothing that fits the size inclusive crowd.

From a design perspective, obviously there are ways to create clothing that will fit a variety of body types. When it comes to traditional tailored clothing, it can be a daunting process to meet the goal of fitting consumers on both ends of the size spectrum.

In my experience, after being in all kinds of fittings for so many years… it really comes down to knowing your consumer.

Without a clear picture of this person in mind throughout the entire design and production process, the clothing can often appear as lacking the original vision of the design team. Not to mention fitting the consumer poorly if at all. So many brands just tack on a few sizes as an “afterthought”. This may capture a certain percentage of extended consumers, but in no way does it address their needs well.

To really be successful in the size inclusivity game, you need a clear picture of where the opportunity lies in terms of size. In addition, fabric, trim and design should be discussed before the production cycle begins. That way you can be proactive when it comes to heading off challenges in the production process.

The goal here is to capture the right consumer data and match it to your brand in a meaningful way. For existing brands, this can be as simple as tweaking that grading formula for the extended portions of the size range. For new brands, it might be coming up with a whole new way to look at the body that best represents their consumer and expanding up and down from there. With either choice, there are huge opportunities to succeed, just not as an “afterthought” in the production cycle.

In theCURVYLab classroom we challenge students to really understand their customers and to be inspired to design clothing with that consumer in mind… from the beginning of the process to the end. I like to have students actually find photographs of someone they think best represents the brand. Each time they are making a design decision, this person should be in the equation.

I’m here to challenge brands and retailers to do the same. Let’s actually serve the consumer we are trying to capture, not just see them as an afterthought. Let’s put them into the conversations that occur during development meetings.

Building a truly successful size inclusive brand means taking the time to address and execute their needs in a meaningful way. Let’s make Size Inclusive translate into increased sales, expanded base and consumer loyalty… not just another empty soundbite lacking in understanding and execution.

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Angela O'Riley

Lover of words and the magical way they can educate, inspire and uplift us... passionate about the fashion industry and its contribution to society...